Material matters more for a piercing than for almost any other jewellery. An earring rests on the skin, but a piece of piercing jewellery sits inside a channel that has to heal. Here you will find the difference between titanium, surgical steel, PVD gold, solid gold and silver. You can also see what suits a new piercing and a healed piercing, and what to choose if you have a nickel allergy.
The short answer
- New piercing: Titanium F136 is the safest choice. Nickel-free solid gold in 14-18 carat is also approved.
- Healed piercing: Titanium, surgical steel and gold-tone jewellery with PVD coating can all be worn.
- Nickel allergy: Choose titanium. Surgical steel contains nickel.
- Avoid in a new piercing: Silver, gold-plated jewellery, acrylic and jewellery made of unknown metal.
Which material is best for a new piercing?
A new piercing is an open wound, so the jewellery needs to be as inert to the body as possible. The international organisation for professional piercers, the Association of Professional Piercers (APP), recommends these materials for initial jewellery:
- titanium to the ASTM F136 standard
- special implant-grade steel (ASTM F138)
- niobium
- 14 carat gold or higher, free of nickel and cadmium
- platinum and glass
The jewellery should have a mirror polish and ideally internal threading or a push-in (threadless) fitting. That way, no rough thread has to be pushed through the channel.
Gold-plated and gold-coated jewellery, on the other hand, is not recommended for new piercings, because the coating can wear off. The same goes for silver and acrylic.
Your piercer fits the first piece of jewellery, and it is sterile. Once the piercing has healed, you can change to your own jewellery.
Titanium piercing jewellery: the lightest and most skin-friendly choice
Titanium is the material most piercers prefer, both for new piercings and for people with sensitive skin.
What is titanium F136?
F136 is a titanium alloy (Ti6Al4V ELI) described in the American standard ASTM F136, which is also used for medical implants. It consists of titanium with a little aluminium and vanadium. Nickel is not part of the composition, which is why F136 is the obvious choice if you have a nickel allergy.
At BY CARA, the vast majority of our piercing jewellery is made of titanium F136, more than 400 designs, including all of our belly button piercings. The material is stated on every product.
What does titanium feel like to wear?
- Light: Titanium weighs around 40 % less than steel. You can feel the difference, especially in a belly button piercing and with larger rings in the cartilage, where a heavy piece can pull.
- Less cold: Titanium conducts heat about half as well as steel, so it usually does not feel as cold when you put it in.
- Smooth: A mirror-polished titanium piece slides easily through the channel.
- Colour: Silver-tone titanium is a touch darker grey than steel. Most people cannot tell the difference once the jewellery is in.
Can you be allergic to titanium?
It can happen, but it is rare. Titanium is considered one of the most skin-friendly metals, and a reaction is more often caused by irritation, pressure or aftercare than by the material itself.
Surgical steel (316L): strong and affordable, but contains nickel
Surgical steel is 316L stainless steel. It is hard, durable and cheaper than titanium, which is why it is so widely used for jewellery. 316L contains roughly 10-14 % nickel. The nickel is bound in the alloy, so the steel releases very little, and many people tolerate it well. The EU sets a limit on how much nickel piercing jewellery may release, and it is stricter than the limit for ordinary jewellery.
But "surgical steel" is not a protected term. Only steel made to the implant standard ASTM F138 is approved by the APP for new piercings. Our advice:
- Healed piercing and no nickel allergy: Surgical steel is a good, affordable choice.
- New piercing or nickel allergy: Choose titanium.
At BY CARA, a smaller share of our piercing jewellery is made of 316L surgical steel, including some of the cheapest labrets from €5. It is always stated on the product.
Gold-tone piercing jewellery: what does PVD coating mean?
Our gold-tone piercing jewellery gets its gold colour from PVD coating. PVD stands for Physical Vapour Deposition. In a vacuum chamber, the coating material is vaporised and bonds to the metal underneath, forming a thin, hard layer.
PVD coating or traditional gold plating: what is the difference?
| PVD coating | Traditional gold plating (electroplating) | |
|---|---|---|
| How it is made | Vaporised and bonded to the metal in a vacuum | Gold is applied in an electrolytic bath |
| Durability | Harder and more hard-wearing | Wears faster, especially with water and sweat |
| Water | Copes better with showers and swimming | Should be taken off for showers |
| For a new piercing | No, wait until it has healed | No |
No coating lasts for ever. Friction, perfume, chlorine and salt wear it down over time, but PVD typically lasts considerably longer than traditional gold plating. That is why our gold-tone jewellery can be called waterproof.
Can you wear PVD gold in a new piercing?
We do not recommend it. The APP does not approve coated jewellery as initial jewellery, because the layer can in principle wear off. Choose silver-tone titanium or solid gold until the piercing has healed. After that, PVD gold is a good, affordable choice.
Solid gold: 14 carat is the best gold for piercings
Solid gold is gold all the way through, with no coating to wear off. That makes it the only gold the APP approves for new piercings, with these requirements:
- 14 carat or higher. Lower carats contain more of other metals.
- No more than 18 carat. Gold above 18 carat is too soft for piercing jewellery.
- Nickel- and cadmium-free. Pay particular attention to white gold, which can contain nickel. Yellow gold and rose gold are the safest.
Solid gold costs more than titanium and PVD, but it keeps its colour for ever and can be worn in both new and healed piercings.
Coming soon: Solid gold piercing jewellery is arriving at BY CARA shortly.
Silver, acrylic and other materials
- Silver (925 sterling): Not for new piercings. Silver tarnishes (oxidises) and can irritate the channel and discolour the skin. In a healed earlobe, silver is fine.
- Acrylic and plastic: Cannot be sterilised and is not suitable for new piercings. Bioplast is, however, used by piercers during pregnancy and for X-rays, for example.
- Niobium: An element similar to titanium that is also nickel-free. It is less common and usually more expensive.
Nickel allergy and piercings
Nickel allergy is one of the most common contact allergies, especially among women. Many people develop it precisely because they get their ears pierced or get a piercing with jewellery that releases nickel. Once you have the allergy, it does not go away.
Signs of an allergy:
- itching and redness around the hole
- small blisters or eczema
- a piercing that stays irritated even though you look after it
Signs of an infection:
- increasing pain and warmth
- swelling
- yellow or green pus
If you see signs of infection, contact your piercer or your doctor. If you suspect an allergy, the first step is to switch to titanium.
The materials side by side
| Material | New piercing | Healed piercing | Nickel allergy | Weight | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Titanium F136 | Yes | Yes | Yes | Very light | Medium |
| Surgical steel 316L | Implant-grade steel (F138) only | Yes | No | Heavier | Low |
| PVD gold (on titanium/steel) | No | Yes | Depends on the metal underneath | As the metal underneath | Low-medium |
| Solid gold 14-18 ct | Yes | Yes | Yes, if nickel-free | Heavy | High |
| Silver 925 | No | Earlobe | Often | Medium | Low-medium |
| Acrylic/plastic | No | Short term | Yes | Very light | Low |
When can you change to your own jewellery?
Wait until the piercing has fully healed, not just until it stops hurting. As a rule of thumb:
- Earlobe: 6-8 weeks
- Nose: 2-6 months
- Cartilage (helix, tragus, conch, rook): 6-12 months
- Belly button: 6-12 months
If in doubt, ask your piercer. Read more in our guides to helix, belly button, nose and all ear piercings.
How to make your jewellery last longer
- Clean the jewellery with mild soap and lukewarm water, and dry it thoroughly.
- Avoid getting perfume, hairspray and creams directly on the jewellery. This applies especially to PVD gold.
- Take gold-tone jewellery off in salt water and chlorine if you want the colour to last as long as possible.
- Check regularly that the ball or top is screwed on tightly.
Frequently asked questions about piercing materials
What is the best material for a new piercing?
Titanium F136 is the safest choice, because it is light, mirror-polished and nickel-free. Nickel-free solid gold in 14-18 carat is also approved.
Which is better, titanium or surgical steel?
Titanium is lighter and nickel-free, which makes it the best choice for new piercings and sensitive skin. Surgical steel is cheaper and fine in a healed piercing if you do not have a nickel allergy.
Can surgical steel cause an allergic reaction?
Yes, it can if you have a nickel allergy. 316L contains nickel, even though it releases very little. Choose titanium if you react.
Is titanium nickel-free?
Yes. Titanium F136 has no nickel in its composition and is the most widely used material for people with a nickel allergy.
Can you be allergic to titanium?
It can happen, but it is very rare.
What does PVD mean on jewellery?
PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) is a method where a thin, hard coating is bonded to the metal in a vacuum chamber. It lasts longer than traditional gold plating and copes better with water.
Does PVD gold fade?
PVD is very hard-wearing, but no coating lasts for ever. With normal wear, the colour lasts a long time. Perfume, chlorine and salt water wear it down faster.
Can I wear gold-plated jewellery in a new piercing?
No. Wait until the piercing has healed, or choose solid gold in 14-18 carat.
Can you wear silver in a piercing?
Not in a new piercing, because silver tarnishes and can cause irritation. In a healed earlobe, it is fine.
Can you shower and swim with piercing jewellery?
Titanium and surgical steel are fine in water. PVD gold also copes with showers, but the colour lasts longest if you avoid chlorine and salt water. Do not swim with a new piercing until it has healed.
Is solid gold good for piercings?
Yes, if it is 14-18 carat and nickel-free. Avoid white gold if you have a nickel allergy.
This guide is for general guidance and is not medical advice. If your piercing is red, warm and tender for a longer period, contact your piercing studio or your doctor.
